ROOTS: One Hundred Years Walter Spies in Bali
ROOTS, One Hundred Years of Walter Spies in Bali
by Michael Schindhelm at Arma Museum in Ubud, Bali
24 May–14 June 2025
The exhibition revolves around the fascinating figure of Russian-born German artist Walter Spies (1895 – 1942), whose influence on Bali’s cultural landscape reverberates today. Spies’ legacy is deeply intertwined with Bali’s contemporary narrative, and ROOTS aims to show his profound impact while exploring the island’s postcolonial legacy over the last century.
At the heart of ROOTS lies Villa Iseh, a retreat built by Spies in 1937 in Iseh, Karangasem. Initially a sanctuary for Spies, it later became a renowned destination for the rich and famous, including David Bowie, Yoko Ono, and Mick Jagger. The exhibition will examine the themes of mass tourism, environmental degradation, and the complex interplay of cultural identities in Bali.
Highlights include works by the painter Made Bayak and the graphic artist Gus Dark, who explore the Balinese struggle to preserve their cultural identity amidst contemporary challenges, along with a number of films and installations that will present pivotal moments in Balinese history, including the 1965 genocide.
Excerpts from Michael Schindhelm’s docu-fiction film ROOTS will accompany the exhibition. The film presents Walter Spies as a spectral presence navigating Bali’s modern landscape. Through encounters with Balinese artists and luminaries, the ghost of Spies grapples with his own legacy and the enduring impact of Western civilization on the island. Visitors will be invited to accompany him on his journey across today’s island, 99 years after the painter’s first visit.
ROOTS honours Spies’ enigmatic legacy, weaving his story into Bali’s contemporary narrative and exploring the complexities of cultural exchange. Through the dancer Dewa Ayu Eka Putri, the musician Putu Tangkas Adi Hiranmayena, and Balinese collaborators, including internationally renowned choreographer Wayan Dibia, gallerist Agung Rai and many others, the spirit of Spies will be awoken within this exhibition.
In 1923, Walter Spies embarked on a journey from Europe to the tropics in search of a new world and artistic inspiration. Despite his significant influence as an artist, his story has largely faded from the Western consciousness. Born in Moscow in 1895 and tragically perishing at sea off Sumatra in 1942, Spies’ legacy remains enduringly influential in Bali a century after his arrival on the island. Regarded by Balinese as a pioneer of modernism on the island, Spies underwent a profound artistic transformation under the pervasive influence of Balinese art. Despite exhibitions in Berlin and Dresden and friendships with esteemed artists from Oskar Kokoschka and Otto Dix to Friedrich Murnau, Margaret Mead and Charlie Chaplin, Spies’ reputation in his homeland pales in comparison to his revered status in Bali.
Michael Schindhelm says, “The exhibition Roots and the docufiction of the same name are to be understood as a collective memory project that deals with an important aspect of Bali’s post-colonial history: the influence of Western modern culture on Balinese cultural traditions. The chequered history of Walter Spies on the island and its after-effects on the subsequent transformation of Bali into a global tourism destination are understood as a ‘shared heritage’. Together with protagonists of Balinese culture today, Roots attempts to place the legacy left by Walter Spies in its historical context and at the same time to understand its significance for the development of Bali today.”
Michael Schindhelm’s docu-fiction ROOTS will be screened at various locations in Bali between 21 May and 14 June. It will be concluded with a special screening and award ceremony for local students on 14 June at the Arma Museum.
